Thursday, October 20, 2011

National Park: Shenandoah National Park



So we decided to visit Northern Virginia and Charlottesville, VA over the Labor Day Weekend of 2011. It was a wonderful trip which involved seeing lots of family and friends. In addition to that, we took a visit to three of our National Parks that weekend: The Blue Ridge Parkway, Shenandoah National Park and Manassas Battlefield.


The Shenandoah National Park is a skinny park in western (not West by God) Virginia. It encompasses part of the Appalachian or Blue Ridge Mountains. The Skyline Drive is the most pronounced aspect of the park. This road is very popular during the fall for views of the beautiful autumn foliage. This being labor day, the park was very green and misty. 

Big Meadows in Shenandoah National Park

The drive through the park from the North (in Front Royal) to the South (in Waynesboro) is about 100 miles and takes about 3 hours of straight driving. However, you will want to stop numerous times as we did. There have got to 40 or so overlooks with beautiful vistas of the valley and the surrounding landscape. We also had an opportunity to have lunch at Harry F. Byrd Visitor Center at the Big Meadows area which is a visitor center roughly halfway through the drive. The restaurant near Big Meadows which had some great fried chicken.
The AT



Another popular feature of the park is the Appalachian Trail which runs from Georgia to Maine. There are other hiking trails in the park, but the AT is the most famous. One of my favorite trails in Shenandoah National Park is Old Rag Mountain. There are a few technical spots to the Old Rag hike, but nothing that even a novice hiker couldn't handle. There are also some stunning waterfalls in the Shenandoah National Park and plenty of wildlife. We also had to stop about a half dozen times for white tail deer the road. 

Deer in Ferns

The great thing about Shenandoah National Park is that it is close to Charlottesville, VA which is "Grammy's" hometown. We made a point of meeting up at King Family Vineyards on our way back into town to take in the view and a couple glasses of wine. 
Enjoying a game of "tag" at King Family Vineyards



Sunday, October 16, 2011

National Park: The Blue Ridge Parkway






So we decided to visit Northern Virginia and Charlottesville, VA over the Labor Day Weekend of 2011. It was a wonderful trip which involved seeing lots of family and friends. In addition to that, we took a visit to three of our National Parks that weekend: The Blue Ridge Parkway, Shenandoah National Park and Manassas Battlefield.

The Blue Ridge Parkway is probably the one National Park that I have been to most frequently due to its proximity to where I went to college and where I used to work. While I was a field sales representative, and if the timing was right, I would get on the parkway in Central Virginia and drive back to Waynesboro on a Friday evening, it helped bring me back down to earth after a busy work week. This route may not have been the most direct route home at the end of the week, but it provided nice scenery, lacked traffic lights and traffic. Prior to that, there was also an annual pilgrimage for me and my UVa pals to Humpback Rock at the beginning of the year, and then the odd occasion throughout the year. By going to Humpback Rock, however, visitors are only “dipping their toe” into the Blue Ridge Parkway.

The park starts in Waynesboro, VA at the northern end and goes through Virginia’s Appalachian Mountains and well into North Carolina. I think it is the only US National Park that is specifically a road. The views are stunning, especially in the fall when the trees are a bright orange, yellow and red. The Appalachian Mountains (older than their Rocky Mountain brothers and sisters) have a mystical look about them in the morning when the fog is laying low over them.

View from Humpback Rock near the Blue Ridge Parkway

On this occasion, I only dipped by proverbial foot in and hiked Humpback Rock. It is an easy 20-30 minute hike and it very accessible from the I-64, so it can get crowded. The Visitor’s Center doesn't open until 9AM so folks start rolling in then, but the parkway and the trails themselves are open a lot earlier. There were a few early bird hikers and photographers out there that morning, but I had enough to find my little slice of solace that Labor Day Saturday.






After the quick hike it was back to Charlottesville for a fall football game at Scott Stadium. That evening, UVa Cavaliers trounced the William and Mary Tribe.






Sunday, September 25, 2011

National Park: Manassas Battlefield (Virginia)



Manassas or Bull Run? This was the question that we were asking ourselves as we drove down I-66 on Labor Day 2011. As it turns out, we learned, from a quick iphone query, many of the battlefields in the Civil War have two names. One name reflects how Northern or Union forces identified them, while the other name reflects out the Southern or Confederate forces identified them. In this case, probably the most famous of the 15 or so battles with two names: First Manassas is the Southern name, while First Bull Run is the Northern name. The Northern side often named battles for bodies of water or natural features. The Southern side most often used the name of the nearest town or man-made landmark. Here is a list of American Civil War battles with their Southern (S) and Northern (N) names:

  • First Manassas (S) and First Bull Run (N)
  • Oak Hills (S) and Wilson's Creek (N)
  • Leesburg (S) and Ball's Bluff (N)
  • Mill Springs (S) and Logan's Cross Roads (N)
  • Elkhorn Tavern (S) and Pea Ridge (N)
  • Shiloh (S) and Pittsburg Landing (N)
  • Seven Pines (S) and Fair Oaks (N)
  • Mechanicsville (S) and Battle of beaver Dam Creek (N)
  • Gaines's Mill (S) and Chickahominy River (N)
  • Second Manassas (S) and Second Bull Run (N)
  • Ox Hill (S) and Chantilly (N)
  • Boonsboro (S) and South Mountain (N)
  • Burkittsville (S) and Crampton's Gap (N)
  • Sharpsburg (S) and Antietam (N)
  • Perryville (S) and Chaplin Hills (N)
  • Murfeesboro (S) and Stones River (N)
  • Mansfield (S) and Sabine Cross Roads (N)
  • Winchester (S) and Opequon (N)

I don't know a lot about the Civil War, but I am fascinated by it. It is a relentlessly studied subject, and I recently learned at the Abraham Lincoln Library that President Lincoln lags only Jesus in terms of biographies written about him. I don't know if that is true or not, but it seems plausible. What I do know about the First Manassas (that is how the National Park Service refers to it) is that it was one of the first major land battles of the Civil War. While the first shots were fired at Fort Sumter in South Carolina a few months earlier, the shots fired here were in anticipation of a short battle with a quick Northern victory. I also remember reading somewhere that there were spectators that came from Washington, D.C. to watch the action thinking that there would be a quick Northern victory. What ultimately happened was that the Confederate side won the day, but suffered so many casualties they were unable to pursue the North into Washington, D.C. This battle is also commemorated for the fact that it was the first time in world history that soldiers were transported by train (on the Southern side).

"Stonewall" Jackson monument at First Manassas Battlefield with sleepy daughter, nephew and  Moose.
I won't get into the technicalities or outflanking maneuvers here, there is plenty of that in animated movies at Civil War Trust. There are some important characters and some features of today's park that I wanted to call out. First and foremost, is Thomas "Stonewall" Jackson, who earned his name here. "Stonewall" Jackson earned his name during First Manassas when Brig. Gen Barnard Elliott BE, Jr. said, "There is Jackson standing like a stone wall. Let us determine to die here, and we will conquer. Rally behind the Virginians!" There is some debate as to whether the statement was meant to be pejorative. While Jackson's brigade lost more men than any other that day, the were effective enough to hold off the Union. Jackson is considered to be the greatest military tactician in American history, and is also (in)famous for having been shot by his own men and having his left arm buried in Orange County, VA after the Battle of Chancellorsville. Stonewall Jackson is buried in Lexington, VA. His image and name are memorialized in numerous parks, monuments, schools and his visage is seen carved into Stone Mountain outside of Atlanta, GA.





Secondly, Henry House Hill figured prominently. The Henry family owned the farm on which much of the fighting of First Manassas took place. "Stonewall" and his men fought from positions on the Hill. There is a house on top of the hill in the park. This is where many of the Hill family is buried including the matriarch, ultimately killed during by a shell during the battle. The house has been refurbished and you can see the interior during your walk around the park.

Finally, the beautiful Stone Bridge features prominently in today's park. It markets the eastern entrance of the park. It was destroyed during First Manaassas. The bridge  lay in ruins after the battle.

File:Ruins of Stone Bridge, Bull Run (March 1862).jpg

Later it was refurbished using the original design.

Stone Bridge

Thursday, September 8, 2011

National Park: Brown vs the Board of Education of Topeka, KS


Topeka, Kansas is the state capital and is home to over 100,000 residents. I made it to Topeka, Kansas on my Missouri/Kansas road trip in the spring of 2011. I spent a couple of hours at this National Historic site and the harrowing images from this time have stuck with me ever since.

The Civil Rights struggle is certainly one of the darkest moments in American history. During the early 20th century, the “separate but equal” ruling of Plessy vs. Ferguson had legitimized the move toward racial segregation in many parts of the country.  The Plessy vs. Ferguson case involved Homer Plessy boarding a train in the “white” section of a train car, he refused to move to the colored section, subsequently he was arrested and jailed. Mr. Plessy appealed his case to the Supreme Court, where they ruled that “separate but equal” was acceptable. The idea was that separation of citizens of different races and genders was legal as long as the facilities were of equal quality. This case took place in Louisiana, and many often think of this issue as a "Southern" issue, but this racial controversy existed elsewhere including the District of Columbia, Delaware and Kansas.

front exterior of the site
The Brown vs. Board of Education National Historic Site in Topeka, Kansas

In most instances (including public bathrooms, water fountains, cafes and most relevant public schools) the facilities were not of equal quality. In 1952, there were cases from Kansas, Delaware, Washington, D.C., South Carolina and Virginia which challenged segregation in public schools. The U.S. Supreme Court consolidated them into one case named after Oliver Brown in Topeka, KS. One of the most pivotal cases in U.S. History became formally known as Oliver Brown et al vs. The Board of Education of Topeka, KS et al. Because all the cases were consolidated under the one name, the Brown moniker has stuck in history. The case involved Oliver Brown’s daughter who had to walk six blocks and ride a bus over a mile to get to a segregated school while the white school was approximately seven blocks from her house. Oliver Brown decided to attempt to enroll his child in the white school, she was denied admission and directed towards the segregated school. Initially, the District Court found for the Board of Education based on the Plessy vs. Ferguson precedent, and the case was appealed all the way to the United States Supreme Court. Thurgood Marshall (later appointed to the U.S. Supreme Court) would take the case as the chief counsel for the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP).

The strategy of the NAACP was to point out things that were shortcomings of "Separate But Equal". In some cases the inequality was overt. African-American children were made to go to separate schools on a bus even if one were blocks away, the African-American schools may not have the same coursework or programs as the white schools. In other instances inequalities were subtle, renovations were delayed, cost/student disparities were present. Some instances of the "Separate But Equal" were just humiliating, like George McLaurin. Mr. McLaurin fought to get admitted into the University of Oklahoma because they offered coursework in public education administration which wasn't available at the segregated school, only to be humiliated by being made to sit in the corner of the room.

George W. McLaurin (!887-1968) was forced to sit in a separate classroom, library, cafeteria, and restroom areas while attending the University of Oklahoma.


The Brown vs the Board of Education museum itself is a renovated schoolhouse that was in use at the time. There are pictures of classrooms and school children throughout the museum that reflect the era. The main atrium at the center of the room has a series of educational films that walk young students through the Civil Rights movement through the eyes of a modern day teenager. There is another gallery where one can learn more about the people, places and events that shaped the years right before and after the decision. In this room is a passageway that may not be appropriate for young children as the language and some of the imagery is deplorable, but it gives one a sense of what vitriol existed at the time. This exhibit really stuck with me. There are other exhibits throughout the site that outline the legacy of Brown vs. Board of Education where the case is linked to the larger Civil Rights movement, and other struggles for equality like South African apartheid and the Polish Trade Union, Solidarity lead by Lech Wałęsa in the 1980's.

Here is a brief clip from PBS about the case with some background.




Monday, July 11, 2011

National Park: Independence Hall National Historic Site



The concentration of downtown Philadelphia's historical sites are probably unmatched anywhere across the country. I was in Philly on a business trip with my boss. We had plans for an early dinner, but decided we would sneak in to see the Liberty Bell Exhibit before our reservation at Buddakan which was a few short blocks away. The exhibits, galleries and museums seem like private museums, and it is strange to think that you don't have to pay to enter any of these facilities (I guess it comes out of our taxes). There are a few movies or special exhibits that may require a modest fee, but I was able to walk right up to the Liberty Bell and get a the shot below in a manner of minutes.




The inscription reads in part,"PROCLAIM LIBERTY THROUGHOUT ALL THE LAND UNTO ALL THE INHABITANTS THEREOF". We only had a 20-30 minutes to take it all in, but one of the big takeaways (for me anyway) was that the Liberty Bell wasn't cracked during the announcement the Declaration of Independence on July 4th, 1776. That appears to be a myth or legend that I picked up some time in elementary school. The bell was actually manufactured in the UK, and came over in the mid-18th century. The bell actually cracked over a period of time, but the bell hasn't been rung since February 23, 1846 which is George Washington's birthday. On this day, the bell received it's fatal crack. The NPS suggests that it cracked over a long period of time of continual use. 


Independence Hall
This is the main attraction, I didn't get to see it. It is the reason I want to go back. Independence Hall is located in Chestnut Street between 5th and 6th street. It is probably one of the most important sites in US History. The building itself is not that grand, it isn't the White House or the U.S Capitol. There are other buildings of the time that are more spectacular. Furthermore, the building is dwarfed by the cityscape that has sprung up around it. It was here that both the United States Declaration of Independence and Constitution were designed, debated and signed.


Independence Visitors Center
This building could be a shopping mall as it is immense.The Independence Visitor Center is devoted to gift shops, movie theaters, special exhibits, orientation, walking tours, cafes and WIFI! I don't think it is part of the NPS, but it is adjacent to the other parks and is a magnificent area to get oriented to the sites of downtown Philly. I'll be back here too one of these days.


This is one site that I must come back to with my family so we can get the full experience and see all of the exhibits. There is just so much to see and do. In addition to the Independence Hall sites,there is the Deshler-Morris House, the Gloria Dei Church, the Edgar Allen Poe site and the Thaddeus Kosciuszko Memorial.


Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Glastonbury Fesitval of Contemporary Performing Arts: The Music, Part One




This summer I ticked of a major "Bucket List" item by attending the Glastonbury Festival of Contemporary Performing Arts in Somerset, England. My brother and his wife arranged for the the highly sought after tickets. They agreed to pick me up in Manchester, England. They also arranged for camping equipment for me. Logistically, they came through in a big way!

Glastonbury is probably the world's premiere contemporary music festival, and I have been wanting to go for over a decade. The festival has about a half dozen stages, and many more dance tents and smaller venues. The site is blocked off by an 8-9 mile perimeter fence and divided up into various areas or neighborhoods with themes. There is the Pyramid Stage (the Main Stage), the Other Stage (the secondary stage), the Avalon Stage, the John Peel Stage, etc.

Check out Radiohead's 1997 set at the festival that sold me on Glastonbury. Bands typically go all out by putting together a tight set that appeals to the masses (read greatest hits rather than new stuff they may be promoting). Couple that with fans as far as the eye can see, multiple stages, and an atmosphere of "collective togetherness" and it makes for a memorable weekend.

Here is the list of the bands that appeared on just the four biggest stages, there is no way one could see them all over the course of the Friday-Sunday festival.

Pyramid Stage
U2ColdplayBeyoncé
MorrisseyElbowPendulum
Biffy ClyroPaolo NutiniPlan B
B.B. KingTinie TempahPaul Simon
Wu-Tang ClanRumerLaura Marling
Two Door Cinema ClubThe Gaslight AnthemDon McLean
MetronomyTame ImpalaThe Low Anthem
The Master Musicians of JoujoukaStornowayFisherman's Friends

The Other Stage

Primal ScreamThe Chemical BrothersQueens of the Stone Age
Mumford & SonsWhite LiesKaiser Chiefs
Fleet FoxesFriendly FiresEels
Bright EyesJimmy Eat WorldTV on the Radio
The WombatsThe KillsBombay Bicycle Club
The VaccinesJessie JNoisettes
The Naked & FamousTwilight SingersCold War Kids
BrotherTreetop FlyersClare Maguire
Chipmunk Alice GoldDan Mangan

West Holts Stage
Cee Lo GreenBig BoiKool & The Gang
Chase and StatusJanelle MonáeHercules and Love Affair
Dr Jimmy CliffAloe BlaccThe Go! Team
Heliocentrics with MulatuFool's GoldDuane Eddy
Little DragonOmar SouleymanBellowhead
GhostpoetThe Brandt Brauer Frick EnsembleJah Wobble & the Nippon Dub Ensemble
Dengue FeverNicolas Jaar LIVEJamie Woon
ZiriguidumNarasiratoHidden Orchestra

London Afrobeat Collective

The John Peel Stage

DJ ShadowGlasvegasThe Streets
ExampleBattlesRobyn
The CoralNoah and the WhaleHurts
I Am KlootThe HorrorsThe Vaccines
Darwin DeezWarpaintEverything Everything
Cage the ElephantAnna CalviOK Go
Miles KaneDry the RiverThe Joy Formidable
MonaYuckFoster the People
StonefieldFight Like ApesRaghu Dixit
CocoonBrave YesterdayMy Tiger My Timing


One the first day, I was focused on seeing U2 so I hung out at the Pyramid Stage all afternoon and into the evening. U2 has never headlined Glastonbury. They were supposed to headline last year, but Bono hurt his back. They flew in from touring North America on their 360 tour. I saw this tour 3 times in 2009.  I am a big fan. True to form, U2 played an awesome set, although I can't stand that "Get On Your Boots" song even with it mixed up. I had never heard them play "Bad" live and was thrilled to see that one performed. It has been 20 years since Achtung Baby came out, and so I think there was a bit of an homage by playing the first five songs from that album and opening with "Even Better than the Real Thing".

This is the setlist for U2's appearance on Friday. I found some clips on youtube that are decent quality from the TV feed.
Even Better than the Real ThingThe FlyMysterious Ways, Until the End of the World, One, Where the Streets Have No Name, I Will Follow, I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For, Stay, Beautiful Day, Elevation, Get on Your Boots, Vertigo, Sunday Bloody Sunday, Bad, Pride (In the Name of Love), Encore: With or Without You, Moment of Surrender, Out of Control

It was a spectacular success.  Bono sang a few snippets from "She Loves You", "Jerusalem", "Never Tear Us Apart", and "Moving On Up".

This is a video of Even Better Than the Real Thing opener and the third song, Mysterious Ways.. They crushed it. The video is of poor quality because I was a sardine in a sea of people, but you get the idea of my proximity to the band, security fence, guards, etc. I could feel the bass shaking my body from the sound system (that's Larry Mullen, Jr.'s drums just thundering down and vibrating the Flip Camera).

Even Better than the Real Thing


Mysterious Ways

Primal Scream
The only downside of the performance was that this set coincided exactly with Primal Scream's set on the Other Stage. I am bummed I missed them, but I did get to see them at the 9:30 club in Washington, D.C. about 10 years ago. Movin' on Up is one of their songs that I like as performed at Glastonbury.

Morrissey 
Morrissey was another highlight for me. I am not as familiar with his solo stuff, but The Smiths frontman performed quite a few of songs from his group's catalog. I have included a few of them here. I haven't bought into the whole "mserable" thing that Morissey is known for, but one can't escape it given some of his lyrics. He also moped a bit about stage, indicating that most of the fans were there to see U2 instead of him. He also took some time to point out a political issue about circus animals being banned in the UK ahead of "Meat is Murder". It was a good set, with a very well rehearsed band. The band members were brought in from various cities around the globe.

Monday, June 20, 2011

Orlando, Epcot Center and Downtown Disney

Spaceship Earth
Spaceship Earth at Epcot Center

We had a great opportunity this past week, Kate had a business trip that took her to Orlando to meet with many of her global counterparts. I stayed in Indy and worked as a Mr. Mom for part of the week. Everything went smoothly as Mr. Mom, so I relished in the opportunity to join Kate on Thursday evening for a 3 day weekend in sunny (and extremely hot Orlando).


We stayed at the Hilton Orlando Bonnet Creek at a reduced rate because Kate's company had rented out the entire place, and we were able to get our hands on a free ticket to Epcot (after 4pm) thanks to some work connections. Epcot Center is probably the most "grown up" of the Disney parks which isn't saying much...


There are *some* educational opportunities here. There are areas of the park dedicated to "Using your Imagination", an aquarium that also has a "Finding Nemo" ride. One of the highlights of the trip was going into the "Spaceship Earth". Which was a curious tour back into history, and into the future. Towards the end of the ride, our console asked us a few questions, and it gave us our future. Space ship earth is probably the most iconic of all Epcot's attractions.


This wasn't the first time that I had been to Epcot Center. I went once when I was a teenager, and distinct memory that I have is the "dancing fountains" at Epcot. My brother and I thought we were so cool because we figured out that if you stand in the right spot at the right time, you get soaked with gloriously refreshing water in a steamy Florida day. During this 2011 trip, there was a pair of boys doing the exact same thing as we did then. Of course it is easier now when I am 6 feet tall!



video


We had dinner in "Morocco" with a belly dancer, and yes the 3D Michael Jackson flick, Captain Eo, is still playing to enraptured audiences every 30 minutes.


I'll also mention customer service on this trip. Disney has prided itself on making visitor's experience memorable, and they certainly delivered. Mears Transportation, the service that took us from the hotel to Epcot also came through in a big way. In our excitement to get into the park, I left our diaper bag and camera on the bus. They sent a "rover" out to meet the bus, and returned the diaper bag. We hardly lost any time at all and recovered some important belongings (namely diapers and a camera). 

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