National Park: Manassas Battlefield (Virginia)

Manassas or Bull Run? This was the question that we were asking ourselves as we drove down I-66 on Labor Day 2011. As it turns out, we learned, from a quick iphone query, many of the battlefields in the Civil War have two names. One name reflects how Northern or Union forces identified them, while the other name reflects out the Southern or Confederate forces identified them. In this case, probably the most famous of the 15 or so battles with two names: First Manassas is the Southern name, while First Bull Run is the Northern name. The Northern side often named battles for bodies of water or natural features. The Southern side most often used the name of the nearest town or man-made landmark. Here is a list of American Civil War battles with their Southern (S) and Northern (N) names:

• First Manassas (S) and First Bull Run (N)
• Oak Hills (S) and Wilson's Creek (N)
• Leesburg (S) and Ball's Bluff (N)
• Mill Springs (S) and Logan's Cross Roads (N)
• Elkhorn Tavern (S) and Pea Ridge (N)
• Shiloh (S) and Pittsburg Landing (N)
• Seven Pines (S) and Fair Oaks (N)
• Mechanicsville (S) and Battle of beaver Dam Creek (N)
• Gaines's Mill (S) and Chickahominy River (N)
• Second Manassas (S) and Second Bull Run (N)
• Ox Hill (S) and Chantilly (N)
• Boonsboro (S) and South Mountain (N)
• Burkittsville (S) and Crampton's Gap (N)
• Sharpsburg (S) and Antietam (N)
• Perryville (S) and Chaplin Hills (N)
• Murfeesboro (S) and Stones River (N)
• Mansfield (S) and Sabine Cross Roads (N)
• Winchester (S) and Opequon (N)

I don't know a lot about the Civil War, but I am fascinated by it. It is a relentlessly studied subject, and I recently learned at the Abraham Lincoln Library that President Lincoln lags only Jesus in terms of biographies written about him. I don't know if that is true or not, but it seems plausible. What I do know about the First Manassas (that is how the National Park Service refers to it) is that it was one of the first major land battles of the Civil War. While the first shots were fired at Fort Sumter in South Carolina a few months earlier, the shots fired here were in anticipation of a short battle with a quick Northern victory. I also remember reading somewhere that there were spectators that came from Washington, D.C. to watch the action thinking that there would be a quick Northern victory. What ultimately happened was that the Confederate side won the day, but suffered so many casualties they were unable to pursue the North into Washington, D.C. This battle is also commemorated for the fact that it was the first time in world history that soldiers were transported by train (on the Southern side).

"Stonewall" Jackson monument at First Manassas Battlefield with sleepy daughter, nephew and  Moose.

I won't get into the technicalities or outflanking maneuvers here, there is plenty of that in animated movies at Civil War Trust. There are some important characters and some features of today's park that I wanted to call out. First and foremost, is Thomas "Stonewall" Jackson, who earned his name here. "Stonewall" Jackson earned his name during First Manassas when Brig. Gen Barnard Elliott BE, Jr. said, "There is Jackson standing like a stone wall. Let us determine to die here, and we will conquer. Rally behind the Virginians!" There is some debate as to whether the statement was meant to be pejorative. While Jackson's brigade lost more men than any other that day, the were effective enough to hold off the Union. Jackson is considered to be the greatest military tactician in American history, and is also (in)famous for having been shot by his own men and having his left arm buried in Orange County, VA after the Battle of Chancellorsville. Stonewall Jackson is buried in Lexington, VA. His image and name are memorialized in numerous parks, monuments, schools and his visage is seen carved into Stone Mountain outside of Atlanta, GA.

Secondly, Henry House Hill figured prominently. The Henry family owned the farm on which much of the fighting of First Manassas took place. "Stonewall" and his men fought from positions on the Hill. There is a house on top of the hill in the park. This is where many of the Hill family is buried including the matriarch, ultimately killed during by a shell during the battle. The house has been refurbished and you can see the interior during your walk around the park.

Finally, the beautiful Stone Bridge features prominently in today's park. It markets the eastern entrance of the park. It was destroyed during First Manaassas. The bridge  lay in ruins after the battle.

Later it was refurbished using the original design.

National Park: Brown vs the Board of Education of Topeka, KS

Topeka, Kansas is the state capital and is home to over 100,000 residents. I made it to Topeka, Kansas on my Missouri/Kansas road trip in the spring of 2011. I spent a couple of hours at this National Historic site and the harrowing images from this time have stuck with me ever since.

The Civil Rights struggle is certainly one of the darkest moments in American history. During the early 20^th century, the “separate but equal” ruling of Plessy vs. Ferguson had legitimized the move toward racial segregation in many parts of the country.  The Plessy vs. Ferguson case involved Homer Plessy boarding a train in the “white” section of a train car, he refused to move to the colored section, subsequently he was arrested and jailed. Mr. Plessy appealed his case to the Supreme Court, where they ruled that “separate but equal” was acceptable. The idea was that separation of citizens of different races and genders was legal as long as the facilities were of equal quality. This case took place in Louisiana, and many often think of this issue as a "Southern" issue, but this racial controversy existed elsewhere including the District of Columbia, Delaware and Kansas.

The Brown vs. Board of Education National Historic Site in Topeka, Kansas

In most instances (including public bathrooms, water fountains, cafes and most relevant public schools) the facilities were not of equal quality. In 1952, there were cases from Kansas, Delaware, Washington, D.C., South Carolina and Virginia which challenged segregation in public schools. The U.S. Supreme Court consolidated them into one case named after Oliver Brown in Topeka, KS. One of the most pivotal cases in U.S. History became formally known as Oliver Brown et al vs. The Board of Education of Topeka, KS et al. Because all the cases were consolidated under the one name, the Brown moniker has stuck in history. The case involved Oliver Brown’s daughter who had to walk six blocks and ride a bus over a mile to get to a segregated school while the white school was approximately seven blocks from her house. Oliver Brown decided to attempt to enroll his child in the white school, she was denied admission and directed towards the segregated school. Initially, the District Court found for the Board of Education based on the Plessy vs. Ferguson precedent, and the case was appealed all the way to the United States Supreme Court. Thurgood Marshall (later appointed to the U.S. Supreme Court) would take the case as the chief counsel for the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP).

The strategy of the NAACP was to point out things that were shortcomings of "Separate But Equal". In some cases the inequality was overt. African-American children were made to go to separate schools on a bus even if one were blocks away, the African-American schools may not have the same coursework or programs as the white schools. In other instances inequalities were subtle, renovations were delayed, cost/student disparities were present. Some instances of the "Separate But Equal" were just humiliating, like George McLaurin. Mr. McLaurin fought to get admitted into the University of Oklahoma because they offered coursework in public education administration which wasn't available at the segregated school, only to be humiliated by being made to sit in the corner of the room.

George W. McLaurin (!887-1968) was forced to sit in a separate classroom, library, cafeteria, and restroom areas while attending the University of Oklahoma.

The Brown vs the Board of Education museum itself is a renovated schoolhouse that was in use at the time. There are pictures of classrooms and school children throughout the museum that reflect the era. The main atrium at the center of the room has a series of educational films that walk young students through the Civil Rights movement through the eyes of a modern day teenager. There is another gallery where one can learn more about the people, places and events that shaped the years right before and after the decision. In this room is a passageway that may not be appropriate for young children as the language and some of the imagery is deplorable, but it gives one a sense of what vitriol existed at the time. This exhibit really stuck with me. There are other exhibits throughout the site that outline the legacy of Brown vs. Board of Education where the case is linked to the larger Civil Rights movement, and other struggles for equality like South African apartheid and the Polish Trade Union, Solidarity lead by Lech Wałęsa in the 1980's.

Here is a brief clip from PBS about the case with some background.